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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.